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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.